Day 46: Globe, Arizona

Elevation gained: 2,109 ft/Miles 89/Total Miles: 2,318/Total Fast Food: 17

Don and I enjoyed a late dinner of soup and salad last night at Essence of Tranquility. It was good catching up with him and comparing where we had stayed and what we had seen since we were last camping together. Our meal was accompanied with cervezas and some medicinal agave juice. I thought the combination of this and a day soaking in the hot springs would lead to a good night’s sleep, but that did not come to pass. Instead, I was awakened frequently by coyotes, donkeys, roosters and dogs. I tracked the progress of the night through the movement of Ursa Major overhead and at first light, I headed off to Safford for breakfast and then on toward Globe.

The initial portion of today’s route was through the agricultural area around Safford, Thatcher and Pima with their freshly plowed fields ready for cotton planting. As Mt. Graham fell behind me, I rode into the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation. It was here that I had to deal with my first dog in many weeks. He was a very large rottweiler that took off after me from the opposite side of the highway. Given his size, I normally would have been confident that I could outride him; however, on this particular morning I chose to have the “Lumberjack Special” at Denny’s for breakfast and was feeling extremely weighed down. This was one frightening dog and I was growing concerned about how I was going to respond when he caught up to me. But, my dog karma held, and after about a 100 yard chase the dog was blocked by oncoming traffic and I was able to make my escape.

In Fort Thomas, I stopped at the local store – the first of several water breaks today. It was one of those fascinating places that attempts to have one of everything from live minnows to used tires to rifles to stuffed rattlesnakes to nail guns to movies on VCR. It was also a gas station, mini mart and restaurant. A bit later, I also stopped in Bylas where I noticed several cars parked in a dirt lot with signs that said “Food Sale”. One of them offered a favorite of mine – Indian fry bread. I bought it for lunch from a woman who was as expressive as a moai. I’ve heard from others that the people on this reservation are not friendly and I did get a sense of that today.

The next fifty miles continued through the desert. In the cool morning air, lizards shot out from in front of my wheel like sparks. The colorful wildflowers continued their show with yellow marigolds, white daisies and purple lupine, in addition to the sage and mesquite. Later, as I started climbing toward Peridot, I saw my first saguaro of the trip. By the end of the day, they were everywhere. The other thing you see quite often are silent memorials to the dead. They come in the form of a crosses made out of wood, rebar, PVC pipe, ceramic or plastic. Many are decorated with garlands and flowers or contain offerings to the dead whether it be a personal note, an empty shot glass, a stuffed animal or a can of beer. It’s at once heartening and haunting.

I continued on through the remainder of the afternoon trying to stay hydrated in the rising heat. In Peridot, I went into a local store and bought a few bottles of beverages, the local Navajo Times newspaper and an ice cream, which I enjoyed on an outside bench while watching the locals. Feeling more refreshed, I arrived in Globe in the early evening. I rode downtown thinking that I could stay in the old section, but as with most of these small towns, the hotels have moved out to the highway. This is always disappointing to me. I hoped that I would be able to occasionally stay at an old local hotel in the heart of the town, but that seems to be a thing of the past.


Filed under Biking U.S.

10 responses to “Day 46: Globe, Arizona

  1. lili dillon

    Mike with each turn of the pedals you are closer to home. Great photo of you, awesome calves you are catching up with Iron Jaw. Hugs Lili

  2. Craig

    I hope on your next ride that you will have a camera crew follow you, so that we can watch your hurried escapes from wild dogs. That would make an awesome reality show.

  3. jeannette

    I have a technical question — does Denny’s count as fast food?

    (Love reading this every day — living vicariously….)

  4. Polish Super Hero

    Spent the week in Tahoe. Logged zero miles on the bike, added 5 fast food stops and did about 22000 vertical! While shooting the breeze in the hot tub and consuming “healing Agave nectar” I met a guy from Sonoma. While engaging in peaceful conversation about our hobbies he told me he was best friends with Bruce Gordon…isn’t that the bloke that built your cross country ride?

  5. Jo Anne Hersch

    Dear Mike..I read about your ride in the paper this a.m. (Lili had told me you were going, but I had forgotten)..Really enjoyd reading all about your trip..
    Good for you..Take care and want to hear all about when you get home. Love, Jo

  6. Jo Anne Hersch

    Dear Mike..just read about your trp in the paper..loved reading all your comments..will continue to read and want to see and hear more when you get home. Love, Jo

  7. dan

    Are you Mike, big bro of Kevin and Doug….Saratoga/Los Gatos Rd?

    cool ride you’re on

    and I saw the Declan Dillon site as well….

    that lady

    Beers at The Bank in Saratoga when you get back

  8. Jeff Rizzo

    Your trip and blog were featured in the Merc today. Awesome stuff. But stay in or as close to the bike lane as possible, especially if you’re doing headphones. And leftover breakfast bacon will ensure continued dog karma. Keep the rubber to the road. Jeff

  9. Amy Schultz

    Hi Mike,
    I’ve enjoyed reading your blog since Day 1. A friend sent me to your site as a bit of encouragement and perhaps to get me stirring the pot of life. You’re an excellent writer.

    I see that your route is taking you through San Luis Obispo, CA, and I’m curious if it’s a point where you’ll be breaking for the day/night. I, and perhaps some fellow cycling friends, would like to meet you. SLO is a very bike-friendly city, but you’re probably already familiar with the general area since you live not terribly far from it.

    Hopefully you can get my email address from posting this comment (it’s required anyway).
    Hope to hear from you and good luck on your continued journey!

  10. Jae

    I enjoyed seeing all these photos. I grew up in Globe. It was a little walk down memory lane 🙂

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